Sustainability in Personal Care

12th April 2023, Burlington House, London

Thank you to those who attended and made it such a good event.

Some talks from the day are now available  - Please click here

Sustainability in Personal Care

Programme - 16th March 2023

For abstracts please click here

10.00am  Registration opens
10.30am     Introduction - Chair Dr Cuross Bakhtiar
10.35am   Sustainability as a North Star to Drive Positive Change in the Beauty Industry, Bruno de Oliveira, Bodyshop.
11.05am   Super-Natural: Evolving Sustainability in Naturals, Martin Gunson and Emer Mackle, Lake Chemicals
11.35am   Green chemistry extraction of actives from bio-based waste, and the development of sustainable cosmetics ,  Prof R S Blackburn,  Leeds Univ.
12.05pm   100% natural, multifunctional bioactives for sustainable and clean beauty, Disha Patel, bitop AG
12.35pm  Exhibitors and Lunch
1.30pm Afternoon Session - Chair Dr Matthew Giles
1.30 pm   Oat Derived Ingredients in Beauty and Personal Care – a Sustainable, Natural Approach to Skin and Haircare,  Angus Roberts, Oat Cosmetic
2.00 pm  Cold Processable & Energy Saving Ingredient Solutions , Russell Cox , Innospec ltd.
3.00 pm   Approaches to Conscious Formulating,  Helen Hill, Azelis.
3.30pm   Coffee Break
4.00pm Solids and Water-Free Formulations- an alternative approach to sustainable formulating, Trevor Barker, Rettenmaier UK Ltd.
4.30pm Small steps to giant leaps for global sustainability, Golzar Salamni Toussi, Expanscience
5.00pm  Concluding remarks and Wine reception


Anne-Laure Fonteneau and Flavia Bartholomeu Campos, BodyshopFlavia

Title: Sustainability as a North Star to Drive Positive Change in the Beauty Industry,

Biography: Flavia, with more than 17 years of experience in beauty market, has recently arrived from Brazil for her current role as Global Head of Packaging Development and Sustainability in TBS. She is responsible for conducting TBS packaging in the challenging journey to deliver performance, beauty and sustainability. She previously led various R&D positions in Natura, the biggest Brazilian Cosmetic Company, across multiple markets in Latin America.


Anne-Laure has worked in the Cosmetics Industry for 15 years in several countries: France, Italy and the UK. Since 2015 at The Body Shop, Anne-Laure has led the team in charge of new product development for the Bath & Body and Haircare categories, successfully delivering complex projects from the category complete rejuvenation, with naturality and biodegradability as targets, and more recently was appointed as the Head of Advanced Research and Sustainable Technologies. She says “it is such a privilege to put together passion, expertise, science and sustainability, to deliver the best of what cosmetics can offer”.


Martin Gunson and Emer Mackle, Lake Chemicals

Title:  Super-Natural: Evolving Sustainability in Naturals

Abstract: The personal care industry is a dynamic and consumer driven market, where innovation propels growth. This seminar will explore who the Conscious Consumer is and how is this buyer shaping the future of sustainable beauty and advancing natural products?    Traditionally, natural products have been considered sustainable choices, but how can we ensure we are making the right decisions and what innovations will evolve the natural category. The purpose of this seminar is to discuss how can Super-Natural Ingredients continue to be part of our more sustainable future?Emer

Biography: Emer joined Lake in 2020, and is the Market Insights Executive in the Strategic Insights team. Her expertise in interpreting consumer behaviour and trend forecasting helps Lake stay at the forefront of trend analysis.  Emer graduated in 2017 with BSc (Hons.) Food and Nutrition with Diploma in Professional Practice from University of Ulster, located in Coleraine. Her business background includes a Market Analyst role with a focus on the probiotic market. Last year, Emer was an author of an article published in Personal Care Magazine concerning sustainability.Martin

Martin joined Lake in 2022 as a Business Manager for Personal Care. He is responsible for developing sales and customer engagement using Lake’s Thought Leadership model.  Martin has a HND in Chemistry from Reading Technical College and has worked in the cosmetics and personal care industry for the past 30 years. He has a wealth of knowledge and experience gained during this time working on numerous projects related to product innovation and sustainability.


Prof R S Blackburn,  Leeds University

Title: Green chemistry extraction of actives from bio-based waste, and the development of sustainable cosmetics ,  

Biography: Richard Blackburn is the Professor of Sustainable Materials at The University of Leeds. His key areas of research focus around the principles of sustainability and how these principles can be applieRichardd in the fields of materials science, coloration technology and cosmetics. His research is important in terms of the contribution to basic research, fundamental discoveries, and influence on the direction of the field, making a significant contribution to the scientific community. His research also has significant impact in its application in terms of providing more sustainable products and processes for industry and society. Professor Blackburn is a co-founder and director of spin-out company Keracol Limited and its cosmetics brand Dr. Craft.

 In 2013 Professor Blackburn was made a Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Dyers of The City of London, and was given The Freedom of The City of London.  In 2016 he was awarded the Silver Medal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists for Prolonged contributions to education and academic research and in 2017 the Fellowship of the Society. In both 2018 and 2019 he was awarded The Society of Dyers and Colourists Centenary Medal for best paper in the journal Coloration Technology, becoming the first author in history to win the award in two consecutive years.

Disha Patel, bitop AG

Title:  100% natural, multifunctional bioactives for sustainable and clean beauty

Abstract:  bitop focuses on providing the cosmetics and personal care industry, a one-stop solution for creating clean, green and sustainable formulations with the unique ‘Extremolytes’. Extremolytes are 100% natural,Disha multifunctional bioactives which have a very unique mode of action that makes them outstanding active ingredients. This presentation throws light upon the latest consumer trends, the focus on sustainable formulations as well as manufacturing processes and importance clean beauty. Furthermore, it also provides an overview of the various clinical studies conducted on all the bitop bioactives.

Biography:  Disha completed her post-graduation degree with specialization in Cosmetic Science and Technology. Disha has 7 years of rich experience in the Cosmetics, Beauty and Personal Care industry. Her key expertise lies in various fields including R&D, New Product Development, Consumer Technical Insight as well as Technical Sales and Marketing. She has been associated with many organizations in the past like Nivea India, Brillare, Hindustan Unilever and Zydus Wellness. Currently, Disha is working as the Senior Technical Sales and Marketing Manager, at bitop AG and is responsible for their Cosmetics Business Unit.

 Angus Roberts, Oat Cosmetic

Title: Oat Derived Ingredients in Beauty and Personal Care – a Sustainable, Natural Approach to Skin and Haircare

Abstract: During this presentation we take a closer look at why oats are a great ingredient for beauty and personal care applications. We focus on the agronomy, environment, sustainability and social benefits in the Nordic regions where they are grown as well as the benefits of oats on skin and hair, and why oat ingredients are safe and effective.Angus

Biography: Angus Robertson is Head of Sales at Oat Cosmetics, a UK company specialising in personal care ingredients derived from Avena sativa – the common oat. Angus studied Chemistry at Bournemouth University and later completed an executive MBA at Southampton Solent University. He started his career undertaking various laboratory and production management roles in the adhesive’s division of National Starch and Chemical. After 12 years he migrated from technical to commercial and spent a further 11 years engaged as a sales and marketing consultant. In 2011 he joined Oat Cosmetics, still in its embryonic stages, to develop and the sales strategy and grow it into a commercially viable business.When not working Angus spends time with his family, gets involve


Helen Hill ,  Azelis

Title: Approaches to Conscious Formulating 

Abstract: What does conscious formulating mean? Is conscious the new clean? What are the pro’s and con’s of formulating this way. Our lecture will look at the different aspects of making those conscious decisions when formulating, whether it’s around raw material choices, methods of manufacture or sustainable formulation dilemmas.Helen Hill

Biography: Helen Hill has worked in the Personal Care industry for over 35 years, starting in quality control and formulation at a UK contract manufacturer. She then moved to Azelis UK where she started as technical assistant and eventually moved to manage the UK Technical team for Personal Care. After several years as Market Manager for UK PC she has now taken the role of Marketing Manager for the EMEA Personal Care region where she is responsible for developing the Azelis Marketing strategy.


Russel Cox, Innospec

Title:  Cold Processable & Energy Saving Ingredient Solutions

Abstract: To meet consumer needs for effective, mild and natural cleansing, taurate surfactants are becoming increasingly popular with formulators. Taurates are gaining popularity because they are mild to the skin and offer high foaming and strong detergency. Taurates are often used as primary anionic surfactants to build viscosity, offer wide pH and are readily biodegradable.  One challenge to working with taurate surfactants is the necessity to heat the surfactant to enable transfer from storage into a compounding vessel. If an ingredient does not require heating or cooling during the manufacturing process, there are several benefits, including equipment flexibility, time saving, cost saving and sustainability benefits. This seminar focuses on Innospec’s new, cold process, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate surfactant, LUXURIACT. LUXURIACT is a salt-free, sulfate free, pourable taurate surfactant that greatly improves handling while maintaining all the benefits of that SMCT brings to a formulation.   

Biography: Russ obtained both undergraduate and postgraduate degrees in applied synthetic organic chemistry from the University of Leeds. He continued his postdoctoral career conducting both teaching andRussell Cox research at North Carolina State University and back at the University of Leeds. On leaving academia he’s gained over 20 years’ experience across a number of industries: personal care, pharmaceutical, polymers, food and beverage, and soap making, focussing on research and development, formulation and process transfer. After spending a few years dealing with the commercial side of the industry in technical sales, he’s returned to a technical role in the personal care industry to lead the team for Innospec’s Personal Care team covering EMEA


Trevor Barker, Rettenmaier UK Ltd.

Title: Solids and Water-Free Formulations- an alternative approach to sustainable formulating

Abstract:  The ongoing move towards a more sustainable personal care industry is driven by consumers. The challenges to our industry and, especially, formulators is to produce truly sustainable products that work as well as their less-than sustainable counterparts.   In my presentation I will explore the  advantages of water free/ solid formulations as well as the challenges they present. I will also look to offer some technical guidance on how to formulate good quality, functional solid products and offer an insight into the future.Trevor

Biography:  Trevor Barker has worked in the Cosmetics and Personal Care Industry for 33 years.  Prior to JRS, Trevor worked at Cornelius Group PLC occupying both commercial and technical management roles.   His additional experience working in the fast paced world of contract manufacturing for a number of  companies, including McBrides, has given him a comprehensive understanding of the R&D process and its related disciplines.   Trevor graduated from the University of Brighton with an HNC in Applied Chemistry and from the University of Westminster with a Diploma in Cosmetic Science.

 Golzar SALMANI-TOUSSI., Laboratoires Expanscience

Abstract:  Laboratoires Expanscience’s small steps to global sustainability began through the upcycling of their avocado oil, a byproduct of our pharmaceutical activity. Today, upcycling is still at the heart of our development axes, but the past 20 years of commitment to Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) has helped us build a global sustainable approach to developing innovating holistic active ingredients, all the while preserving our planet and communities.

 Biography:    Golzar Salmani-Toussi graduated in Biochemistry from University of Bordeaux has completed her degree with a Master specialized in International Marketing at ISIPCA school in partnership
with ESSEC Business School and Cergy-Pontoise University.  She’s been working both in cosmetic active ingredient business and finished product market for the last 7 years. Her past experience on the export department led her to manage EMEA region for Laboratoires Expanscience cosmetic active ingredient division since 2021. Golzar