Professor Majella Lane

Title:- Application of Confocal Raman Spectroscopy in personal care formulation.  Presentation Recording



Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) is a non-invasive method that combines the principles of confocal microscopy and Raman spectroscopy to enable high analytical spatial resolution and sensitivity. CRS is a powerful tool in skin research as it can provide detailed information about the molecular composition of the skin as a function of depth. Additionally, it enables the determination of skin uptake of topically applied substances in real time in vitro and in vivo without sample pre-treatment or labelling. This presentation will review our experience with CRS over the years for investigation of delivery of molecules to the skin following topical application. Most recently we have investigated the quantitative capability of CRS in vivo and demonstrated excellent correlations with the well-established in vitro Franz-diffusion cell model. As rational formulation design is predicated on identifying those vehicle components that are optimal for a specific active, we have also examined excipient delivery in skin with CRS.  We believe that CRS will prove a reliable, fast, and non-invasive method to assess formulation efficacy thus facilitating cost-effective and accelerated product development.


Majella holds a degree in pharmaceutical science and a PhD in membrane transport. Her major areas of expertise include delivery of actives to and through the skin, biophysical approaches towards the elucidation of active-skin and formulation-skin interactions, mechanisms of active absorption in skin and topical formulation design and evaluation. To date she has published more than 170 peer-reviewed papers, supervised 30 PhD students, and mentored 15 postdoctoral research associates. Majella also acts as a consultant to many multinational companies. She is the Editor-In-Chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science and she serves on the editorial board of a number of cosmetic and pharmaceutical science journals. In 2020 Majella was appointed to the Council of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of the United Kingdom. Her research group collaborates worldwide and she also hosts visiting scientists from academia and industry in her laboratory.


James Holloway, Fullbrook Systems Limited

Title:- Making "light" work of Cosmetics TestingPresentation Recording

 James Holloway


I will present the latest developments in the use of near-infrared light to measure the stability of emulsions, suspensions, dispersions, and foams with NO sample preparation. Reducing testing times by 50 - 200x ensures that formulation work can be significantly reduced, whilst ensuring an excellent shelf-life. The new TSi (Turbiscan® Stability Index) provides instant one-click comparisons between samples, allowing the rapid screening of new raw materials.Real world examples will be given including product / packaging interactions, as well as the determination of the foamability of different products.


I studied Chemistry at Nottingham University and worked in research and development for 7 years, before moving to technical sales. I have an expertise in using light to measure concentrated systems in both the laboratory and process environments.


Ron Savin – Anton Paar Ltd

Title: - Determination of the physical properties of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Presentation Recording

Ron Savin


Ron is an instrumentation engineer and product manager for volatility and consistency instruments with Anton Paar.  His areas of expertise include physical characterisation of materials and ingredients using density, viscosity, refractive index and optical rotation.  He has also worked extensively with universities and manufacturers in the field of oxidation stability measurement for product development & quality control.

Anton Paar Ltd

Anton Paar are known world wide for high-end instrumentation.  Areas of speciality include world leading technology for fluids measurement covering density, viscosity, refractive index, optical rotation, particle sizing and rheological properties.  Other products areas include Petroleum Testing, Microwave Synthesis, Sample Preparation and Material Characterization.

Used across manufacturing, research and the academic sectors.  Their instruments are known for their ease of use, robust construction and high precision.  A core competence in high-precision production and close contact with the scientific community form the basis of their quality and innovation.  This expertise is backed by a presence in over 80 countries offering local technical and application support.


Natalie Belsey, National Physical Laboratory

 Title:-  Topical formulations under the microscope: chemical imaging and fate post application. Presentation Recording



Confocal Raman spectroscopy is a well-established tool to map chemical distribution in formulated products, for example pharmaceutical tablets. However, for high resolution imaging, or investigating dynamic processes, the relatively long acquisition times to generate 3D maps can be limiting.

Non-linear optical spectroscopies such as stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy are a valuable new tool to assess formulations. High resolution 3D chemical images can be acquired in ‘real time’ to reveal ingredient (co-)localization and more. In addition, ingredients can be monitored post-application to the skin, to reveal mechanistic information such as penetration pathway and direct visualisation of metamorphosis.   


Natalie Belsey is a Senior Research Scientist in the Surface Technology Group at the National Physical Laboratory (NPL) and a Senior Lecturer in Chemical & Process Engineering at the University of Surrey. Natalie’s research is focused on the application of optical spectroscopies, in particular stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy to study formulated products and their fate post-application to the skin. To this end, Natalie works with a wide range of collaborators including university partners, pharmaceutical and consumer health companies and regulators. She is a Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry, a Chartered Chemist, and a Fellow of the Community for Analytical Measurement Science (CAMS).


Dr Arnold Uhl, LUM GmbH

Arnold Uhl LUM

Title:- Real-time and accelerated aging tests and beyondPresentation Recording


ISO/TR 18811:2018 (Cosmetics -Guidelines on the stability testing of cosmetic products) serves as a technical/scientific framework to identify the most suitable methods for the assessment of the stability of cosmetic products, but it does not aim to specify conditions, parameters of criteria of stability testing [1]. This talk discusses the use of analytical instruments based on the patented optical STEP-Technology® for the direct in-situ characterization of the physical destabilization of cosmetic products. A recently introduced new instrument determines phase separation in emulsions, suspensions, supoemulsions at gravity in real-time, in the very large temperature range from +4 to +80 °C.

Temperature ramps from hot air oven storage tests can directly be copied. The changes in the sample are characterized earlier cp. faster by the instrument than by naked eye. ISO/TR 13097:2013 (Guidelines for the characterization of dispersion stability) suggest instrumental methods for accelerated stability testing to solve the challenge of detecting rather very slow realtime changes in cosmetic products in a short analysis time to allow for fast development cycles.

Another instrument line combines the selected constant temperature (or a ramp) and the physical acceleration. Here, the comparative shelf-life analysis of formulations in original concentration
according t o ISO/TR 13097 is permitted within a short time.

[1] 25.01.2022, 12:40


Arnold Uhl studied chemistry at Humboldt-University in Berlin from 1989-1994, being particularly interested in organic photochemistry. After the diploma he worked for few years in the field of
semiconductor research. He received his PhD in chemistry from Humboldt-University in 2001. From 1999-2004 he worked in a company producing instruments for industrial process control and
scientific research. In 2004 Dr. Arnold Uhl joined the marketing and sales department of LUM GmbH and was appointed Sales & Marketing Manager in 2009. The comprehensive understanding of
complex industrial formulations and processes in an easy way, by using analytical instruments, inspires him during his daily work with customers around the world. In December 2015 he was
appointed member of the board of directors of LUM (Changzhou) Instruments Co., Ltd. and in 2019 member of the board of directors of LUM (Jiangsu) Instruments Co., Ltd.


Stewart Long, Cutest

Title:- Future Directions in Personal Care and Medical Device Topical Product Testing: How do ensure they are safe and deliver benefits for consumers?  Presentation Recording



In this talk, I will provide a summary of the state of the art in safety and performance testing of the personal care, beauty and topical medical devices we are all familiar with. I will outline how products are tested to ensure their safety to consumers, and how we innovate to demonstrate benefits to consumers that can provide commercial opportunities for the industry. New imaging and biophysical evaluation techniques are being introduced to the industry, along with advanced biochemical analysis of skin to understand how products interact with our skin. I will attempt to give a flavor of the science behind many everyday products we all use daily.


A biochemist by background, with over 30 years’ experience in the beauty and healthcare industry.  My current role is Chief Executive Officer of Cutest Systems Ltd, a contract research organisation providing claims and safety data for personal care, medical device and pharma companies, of over 35 years experience, based in Cardiff. I began my career with Unilever, initially in the dental research group at Colworth House, before moving into the skincare research group where I spent 8 years. I then joined Boots, where over a 12-year career, I held the positions of Claims Innovation Manager, Product Evaluation Manager, Haircare Scientific Adviser and became company Skincare Scientific Adviser across all Boots brands globally. In 2010 I joined Dow Corning in Belgium as Global Market Leader for Skincare, responsible for the skincare ingredients business and in 2014 I moved on to become Global Market Leader for Medical Device materials.  I joined Cutest in November 2015 after nearly 6 years with Dow Corning.

Currently Immediate Past President of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists and a Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry.


Chris Longmore- XCellR8

Title: - Better Science, Better Ethics: 100% animal-free cosmetic safety testing approachesPresentation Recording

Chris Longmore


Many in vitro tests still use animal derived components such as serum, tissue extracts and antibodies. There is an increasing body of evidence that demonstrates the importance of having a system which models human physiology as closely as possible, rather than relying on the use of animal-based culture systems. The significant ethical issues surrounding the use of animal-derived components, especially FBS, have also been well documented. XCellR8 have always taken the view that the use of any animal components undermines the validity of ‘not tested on animals’ and vegan claims and we eliminated the use of animal products in our laboratory from the very beginning.

Understanding the animal-free status of in vitro tests is important for cosmetic products formulators and ingredients manufacturers. We will discuss our 7-point scale for animal-product-free (APF) testing and how it can be used as a tool to aid decision making about which tests are acceptable. The scale clearly shows a progression from the use of animals or components that cause animal sacrifice or suffering, through to waste products (eg from the meat industry) and human-based alternatives, finally progressing to fully APF, defined in vitro systems

We will also present our research and developments to adapt existing safety tests, where all animal components have been eliminated, to use human-derived serum and antibodies from approved sources as well as completely chemically defined products. This approach maximises both the human relevance and reproducibility of the test results.


Chris Longmore is an account manager & scientist at XCellR8, a contract lab with the mission to replace animal testing with scientifically advanced and ethically sound alternatives. Having graduated from the University of Liverpool with a Master’s degree in Biochemistry, Chris began his journey with XCellR8 in the lab, gaining a wide range of practical experience with non-animal in vitro technologies. He now works with businesses in the chemical & cosmetic industries as an account manager, and supports them in designing strategies to utilise non-animal tests for both product safety & efficacy.


 Kurt Dieker, Evonik

KurtDieker sw

Title:- Challenge Testing – Proof of performance, basis for corrective actions!  Presentation Recording


Modern preservation in comparison to traditional ones
The different and most important test methods
How to read and interpret the results


From 1983 – 1995 Kurt Dieker worked in different positions at the Hans Schwarzkopf GmbH. The main focus of his work was the technical guidance as well as the coordination of marketing and laboratory projects for targeted product development.

From the position as a product manager for hair care he changed to Nalco, a multinational raw material supplier. As senior account manager he was in charge of the German, north- and east European markets.

From 2005 – 2017 Kurt Dieker was sales manager at Dr. Straetmans in Germany, responsible for technical support in hair care projects and the promotion of Dr. Straetmans raw materials in Germany and Europe

Since 2017 Kurt Dieker is Business developer at Evonik, in charge with the technical support of all Evonik - products related to Product Protection (Central Europe & Sub-Saharan Africa)


Flora Pense, Coptis


Title:- Manage effectively Testing and QC in your laboratory. Presentation Recording


Equipping R&D departments with solutions to drive product development is the only answer to improve performance in cosmetic development. 

Coptis’ synergistic technology and cosmetic expertise is clearly demonstrated in the Coptis LAB modules.

When it comes to tests to be performed on trials as Stability, Challenge tests, tolerance, and more, Coptis LAB can assist you to :

-              Manage different products and overview all the due and finalized tests ;

-              Create your own tests templates and workflows;

-              Centralize results and print automatic reports with one click;

-              Compare trials on their composition and test response.

Attend this conference to understand how a system can help you manage your formula as well as your tests to make sure how to save time, boost efficiency and minimize risks.


Flora is the Business Development Manager for Europe at Coptis. She has more than 7 years of combined international experience in R&D, Sales & Marketing of Finished goods, Raw materials and Data management software solutions. She holds a Masters’ degree in Biological Engineering from EBI (Industrial Biological School) as well as a specialized master in Innovation management (ENSAM & CESI).

About Coptis company:

For more than 22 years, having double “IT and Cosmetic market” expertise, COPTIS offers performance software solutions for the cosmetic industry; ranging from formulation & application laboratories, cosmetic manufacturers, development subcontractors, toxicology and testing companies, universities, consultants and quality control. Our major product Coptis LAB, a PLM software for formulation development and global regulatory compliance, allows the cosmetics industry to efficiently manage development projects, reduce time to market,  improve the quality and reliability of information.